With Slow-Pitch Jigging, there are so many variations of movements and sequences that we can intentionally make. They can be roughly categorized into 3 kinds.

Slow Pitch Jerk

1 Pitch, 1 Jerk, in basically 1 pitch per second tempo. 1 pitch can be 1 full crank, 1/2 crank, or 1/4 crank or others. Has a moment of stillness at the end of each pitch so that the jig can free swim or free fall in a horizontal position.

Works well in a fair sea condition, with any fish-active levels. As long as the condition allows it, you can surely find a pattern that fish bites within the range of this variation.

Hi Pitch Jerk

Basically it’s the same applications as Slow Pitch Jerk, but with more powerful rod which really whips out the jig. This is different from the conventional hi-speed jigging. The tempo is slow like Slow Pitch Jerk or even slower. Because the whipping is so powerful that the jig slides for more distance and for longer time. After each powerful pitch you see the line slack on the water suspending for a long time. Seafloor Control Messiah swims for the longest distance. Sometimes it swims for 2 seconds and even 3 seconds.

Works well in any sea conditions, with high fish-active level. Sometimes the movement switches on the un-active fish too. This is basically a long shot for a big one. It’s always worth to try it at sunrise and sunset, when a big fish is expected.

Long Fall Jerk

This is a very unique and effective method. Simple slow lift up as high as your rod can reach and a free fall. Pick it up at the bottom of the fall, reel 1 or 2 crank, lift, and free fall all the way.

Utilizes soft rod with a fall jigs. For example, 3oz rod for 220g or heavier. Because we want to stay low profile on the lift, not much flip and flop. Fall jig would not react well to lifting, but plays excellent performance in free falling. By simple slow long lift, you are making the change of pace that triggers the predators.

Works well in any sea conditions, with any fish-active levels. But it’s slow to search wide range and build up your game. So it’s preferred when the fish-active level is low and is usually applied in combination of slow pitch techniques.

Sato Sensei established these principles. He also emphasizes that these are not 3 different methods. They are just the variations of Slow-Pitch jigging, and utilizing these characteristics in a continuous strategy is very important in the field.

Reel Capacity with Jerry Brown Hollow Spectra

Accurate 660, 80lb-350 yds

Accurate 6, 80-lb400 yds

Accurate 12, 80lb-500 yds

Accurate 30, 80lb-700 yds, 130lb-500 yds

Accurate 50, 80lb-900 yds, 130lb-600 yds

Accurate 50W, 80lb-1100 yds, 130lb-900 yds, 200lb-600 yds

Penn 12LT, 80lb-450 yds

Penn 15KG, 80lb-700 yds

Penn 16S, 80lb-600 yds 

Penn 20, 80lb-600 yds

Penn 30, 80lb-700 yds, 130lb-500 yds

Penn 30W, 80lb-1000 yds, 130lb-700 yds

Penn 50, 80lb-1000 yds, 130lb-700 yds 

Penn 50SW, 80lb-1200 yds, 130lb-800 yds, 200lb-600 yds

Penn 50TW, 80lb-1400 yds, 130lb-900 yds, 200lb-700 yds

Penn 70, 130lb-1200 yds, 200lb-900 yds

Penn 80, 130lb-1700 yds, 200lb-1000 yds

Penn 80W, 130lb-2000 yds, 200lb-1200 yds

Shimano TLD20, 80lb-600 yds

Shimano TLD30, 80lb-700 yds, 130lb-500 yds

Shimano TLD50, 80lb-1000 yds, 130lb-800 yds, 200lb-600 yds

Tiagra 16, 80lb-550 yds

Tiagra 30, 80lb-700 yds, 130lb-500 yds

Tiagra 30W, 80lb-1000 yds, 130lb-700 yds

Tiagra 50, 80lb-1000 yds, 130lb-800 yds, 200lb-600 yds

Tiagra 50W, 80lb-1300 yds, 130lb-1000 yds, 200lb-700 yds

Trinidad 40, 80lb-500 yds

Canyon 8000H, 60lb-300yds

Canyon DJR6500, PowerPro 100lb line capacity is about 200 meters.

Omoto Severo 3000, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 180 meters.

Omoto Severo 5000, PowerPro 100lb line capacity is about 300 meters.

Omoto VS12, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 450 meters.

Omoto Ulises Zorro 200Z, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 450 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S16, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 450 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S22, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 700 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S30, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 1400 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S30, PowerPro 100lb line capacity is about 800 meters.

One of the most significant jig developments has been the assist hook. The assist hook comprises a wide gape hook spliced to a short, looped Kevlar cord. The cord is usually looped onto the connecting end of the jig so that the hook is positioned behind the head and belly area of the jig. This is an area jiggers believe predatory fish strike which leads to improved hook sets. Another benefit is less snags because of the absence of the traditional tail treble. Many Japanese jiggers believe that predators also attack the assist hook so they often dress the hook like a flasher or fly.

Choose an assist hook by ensuring the hook gape is wider than the jig. Jiggers often use two assist hooks, varying the cord lengths for greater coverage. The first assit hook is set at one third of the jig and the second assist hook is set at two thirds of the jig. Additional assist hooks can be looped in at the tail if you are getting missed strikes when the jig is dropping. The tail assist will fold up against the jig and into the strike zone but a problem is the potential of the jig to tangle with the leader if jigged too vigorously.

There are many ways to make assist hooks, the main ingredient is Kevlar cord. Cut a 30cm length of Kevlar, double the cord then carefully tie a 2 turn uni knot or nail knot onto the hook shank then tighten with pliers. Trim off Kevlar tags and finish off with a short length of heat shrink tubing to protect the knot. Another simpler way is a single overhand knot onto the hook shank, a drop of super glue then heat shrink tubing.

As with any type of fishing, there is never one rod that will suit all occasions. A good jigging rod must be light, have a parabolic action and strength for lifting. Parabolic rods are easier to jig in the Japanese style, they also help the angler fight big fish and are needed for braided line.

Depending on the jigging style and reel type employed, rod lengths can vary. Most novice jiggers will begin with an existing longer rod, graduating into a specialist rod later.

This new Japanese style jigging could not begin without the advent of ultra thin braided line which was introduced at that time. Braided line is a must when jigging, it not only reduces drag and stretch but it enables the jigger to easily work the jig without being hampered by thick line. The thin braids drastically increase line capacity, or in reverse – reduce the size and weight of the reels needed.

The Japanese call these lines PE lines which is an abbreviation for Poly Ethylene being the scientific name for spectra or dyneema or simply - braid! Japanese use PE as a unit of measurement for braided line thickness, a PE5 braid is roughly equal to 50lb test. Most Japanese PE lines are characterised by colour coding where each colour measures 10m of line. There are usually 5 different colours which are repeated over the entire length of line.

Leaders –

The use of leaders is important in jigging because the terminal end is exposed to reef, abrasion and bite-offs. Asian jiggers much prefer the stealthy advantages of fluorocarbon leaders since their waters have long been ravaged and the fish have become line shy.

When considering leaders, it should be a windon with a length between 3 – 6m. The length is necessary because there should be at least several turns of leader on the reel when the fish comes within gaff range. This allows the leader man an easier line to handle as well as affording some abrasion resistance should the fish suddenly dive beneath the boat rubbing the line against the hull.

There are quick and easy ways to join braid to leader but that generally does not mean they are best. Novice jiggers should begin with game fishing leaders which are joined by loop-to-loop connections. These leaders can be bought over the counter and are easily replaced but there comes a time when the complete jigger should be able to tie at least one of the elaborate connecting knots like the FG, GT, PR, Midknot. These knots are very streamlined and strong. The bulkier uni-to-uni or bimimi-to-albright knots will suffice but fear for the rings on your rod guides.

There are many different jig manufacturers on the market but they all produce jigs where the weight positioning is centre weighted, tail weighted or somewhere in between.

Centre weighted jigs –

These jigs are weight balanced near its centre. This jig is designed to flutter, glide and dart during the drop but fall slower than tail weighted designs. Use this jig in shallower water and for bottom fish (Snapper) that prefer a slower, fluttery presentation. These jigs are the most common and versatile designs and are must have weapons in the jiggers arsenal.

Tail weighted jigs –

These jigs are weight balanced at or near the tail. This jig is designed to drop and lift quickly with a little action. These are the jigs to target deep water bottom fish as their streamlined designs will resist the effects of current better.

The jigs also tend to have small face profiles for better streamlining thus reducing the jig load felt at the rod. Because they are used in deep water, most jigs tend to have luminous finishes which help illuminate this lethal offering to any prospective fish.

Use these jigs to target deep water Kingfish, Hapuka and Sea Bass.

Jig size –

When choosing the jig size - target fish, water depth and current flow should be considered. Heavy tail weighted jigs can be used with pin point accuracy on a small target. A common guide is for 100g for every 100’ of water.

Choosing between a short or long jig might be helped by comparing jig length to the local baitfish at the time. It is also a long-held belief by Japanese jiggers that a long jig resembles a big baitfish which will entice the bigger predators! This choice then becomes a personal one or one that is determined on the day as fish will always have their daily preferences.

Jig colour –

With a wide range of jig colours, patterns and finishes; it can be hard to choose a suitable colour. There is a long held belief that the jig colour should match the overhead light conditions i.e. dark overhead = dark coloured jig, bright sunny = bright coloured jigs. At night and during deep jigging sessions, jigs that are mostly luminous are popular because of their ability to be seen in the dark water. Often before the first drop, I will observe what colour jigs have been selected by other jiggers and then choose a different colour. This way most of the colour spectrum is covered and if there is a hot colour, then you can quickly change to that. In most cases, the prettiest jig is the one that gets tied on and we all know that you will only get bit if you have it in the water.

The success to a jig fishing trip is the ability of the skipper to put the jigger over and onto fish. The skipper must know where to look and how to give the jigger the chance to make the most of the opportunity.

The main advantage of vertical jigging is that you are placing the jig precisely where the fish are located. Knowing the depth of the shoal, the jigger can drop the jig to the exact required depth with multicoloured braided line. Working the jig at a precise depth is more effective than jigging blindly.

Predatory fish such as Greater Amber jack frequent underwater reefs and structures. Look for fish on the 'up-current' side of structures and reefs. It is the skill of the skipper to position their boat up current of the structure and allow for current and give sufficient time for the jigs to drift and hit their mark. From there it is the skill of the jigger to tempt the fish to hit.

There are different vertical jigging techniques like the 'Long Stroke' and the 'Short Jerk'.

Long Stroke is done by working the rod from the gimbal plate. The rod is lifted in a wide arc or long stroke then dropped to allow the jig to flutter downwards to induce a strike. Simultaneously, the reel is quickly wound in 2-3 turns for each cycle. This style is best suited to centre weighted jigs, and spinning combos with a longer rod.

High Pitch, Short Jerk is also known as “Mechanical Jigging”. The rod is carried under the armpit and the rod is stroked in a small arc. Simultaneously the reel is quickly wound in 1 turn for each cycle. This style is best suited to tail heavy streamlined jigs, and overhead reels with a shorter rod.

The above is a guide for the Japanese jig style, there are no set rules to abide so you can easily mix up the techniques and tackle to suit yourself. Certain species prefer a slower fluttery jig presentation while others prefer blistering speed. Both styles can be successfully worked at either slow or high speed or a combination of both. The attraction with jigging is the room to experiment to find what works for you.

Modern strike drags are generally set at one-quarter on light tackle to one-third on heavy tackle of the line class used on balanced tackle. Experienced fishermen often work well above these fighting brakes when the fish and fight allow. The recommended schedule of a successful Caribbean angler is:

Tackle Class, Striking Drag, Fighting Drag

12lb (6Kg) , 3lb (1.3Kg), Less than 3lb (1.3Kg)

20lb (10Kg), 5lb (2.2Kg), 3-4lb (1.3-1.8Kg)

30lb (15Kg), 9lb (4.09Kg), 7lb (3.1Kg)

50lb (24Kg), 15lb (6.8Kg), 9-13lb (4.09-5.9Kg)

80lb (37Kg), 24lb (10.9Kg), 16-20lb (7.2-9.9Kg)

130lb (60Kg), 50lb (22.7Kg), 24-30lb (10.9-13.6Kg)

A game rod needs to have enough power to set hooks, enough to gain line against pressure and enough length to help an angler keep tight on a lunging, head-shaking beast. The easiest way to test a rod's effectiveness is to stick a reel on it, thread it up and lift half its rating off the floor. If you are checking 10 kg rod, lift 5kg off the floor. If the rod bends to the reel grip it is too light. I prefer rods that bend only in their upper half. Maintaining tight line and full drag is very difficult with a rod whose tip folds away under little pressure, leaving only 2 to 3 feet of rod that can be used to pump loaded line. The longer and stiffer the rod, the easier it is to keep the line tight, the more line you gain per pump, and when the fish gets close the less likely you are to get cut off under the boat or around the propellers.

The lighter the line class, the longer the rod. For very light line under 8lb some anglers prefer a parabolic action so that the rod is a better shock absorber.

For record purposes, the IGFA equipment regulations demand that the rod tip must be a minimum of 101.6cm (40 in) long and the butt a maximum of 68.58cm (27 in) long. Curved butts, developed for use in the fighting chair are measured as a straight line. A growing number of anglers who do not wish to be constricted by the fighting chair, have rods designed specifically for them. These are considerably shorter than the traditional trolling big game rods. Stand-up rods measure between 1.5 to 1.8 meters and have a shorter butt-end than usual, as well as a fast taper to give lots of action.

A rod needs good guides, most production rods make use of Hardloy (a high-grade aluminium oxide) as the material is hard and durable. The guide material advances incorporate features that reduce the risk of impact breakage or chips, and significantly harder and smoother materials to reduce the risk of wear and heat build up on pressure points. Silicone Carbide are better guides and Gold Cermet guides are the best guides but more expensive. For big game rods good quality roller runners are better than guides. The best roller runners are anodized aluminium with waterproof stainless steel ball bearings.